Replacing a panel meter

Remove all sources of power

• Ships AC input Service Selector Switch to Off.
• Switch off any other AC sources such as dual shore power feeds for aircon units.
• Disconnect all sources of shore power.
• Disable any autostart generators.
• Ensure generators are off.
• Inverters off.
• Isolate all batteries including bow and comms batteries.
• Remove any watch or rings as there may still be 12/24V present in the panel for bilge pumps and fire suppression

Every boat is unique so there may be other sources of power that you need to consider. If you are not confident in your ability to do the job safely, employ a suitably qualified professional.

You may want to make a record of everything that you switch off as you go. It's easy to forget to switch something back on when you've finished.

Remove the large polycarbonate cover behind the switch panel

Remove the old panel meter

If you're replacing more than one meter, it's safest to do them one at a time to avoid mixing up which meter had which setting.

• Remove the green plug from the panel meter to be replaced
• Unscrew the two fixing clamps either side of the meter. With about 3mm of play, the clamp can be worked forward then out from the plastic case.
• Later meters have a plastic strap arrangement that engages in a long slot then slides forward to clamp the meter. Lift the tab and slide it back to release the meter.
• Pull the panel meter out from the front of the panel.

Remove the front bezel

• Slide a fingernail into the middle of either the left or right side between the red Perspex and the bezel.
• Gently apply outward pressure and then pull forward - the bezel should release a couple of millimetres.
• The opposite side is sometimes harder to remove. Work a fingernail along the long seam that has opened between the bezel and the case, continue down the short side and the bezel should come away.
• Avoid the temptation to pull the bezel off with force.
• Set the bezel and the two sheets of red Perspex to one side.

Remove the circuit board from the case.

The circuit board is held in place by a small rectangular tab that protrudes out the bottom front of the case. The board is released by easing the case away from the tab.

• Hold the panel meter in one hand, using your index finger to apply gentle pressure to the green socket at the back.
• With the other hand, slide a finger or small plastic implement between the circuit board and the bottom of the plastic case and gently ease the case away from the board. The corner of a plastic ruler works well.
• The board should pop out of the front of the case when the tab is released.

Set the function on your replacement board

For AC and DC ammeters, you need to make a note of the setting that is listed on the silver Chi Tai label.

For boards with rotary switch selectors, there is another Technical Support page listing the function settings.

Later boards with front touch sensors are programmed after the board is installed and powered up.

• Ensure that the silver label on the plastic case is facing up.
• Slide the board back into the case. There is a pair of plastic rails either side to guide the board in. If the board does not feel right going in, you've probably missed the rails and the board is riding on top of the upper rail.
• The tab on the display should line up with the rectangular opening on the case.
• Ease the case away from the tab and gently push the board in. Try not to get dirty fingerprints on the display.
• The tab should click into place.

Replace the front bezel.

The Chi Tai factory failed to remove the clear protective film on both Perspex sheets on all of my meters. Over time, this film peels away from the Perspex in places and causes the displays to look fuzzy. It's worth peeling the film off fully while you have the display apart.

• The Perspex sheets have a rough and a smooth side. For best results, the two smooth sides should face each other with the rough sides facing out. One of the sheets will have a little sticker denoting the units of the display (A, V or H) make sure you reassemble with the unit sticker showing on the outside bottom right.
• On old style cases, the bezel has a subtle indication of top and bottom. The top is completely smooth and the bottom has a slight ridge at the front
• With the Perspex sheets in place, gently put the bezel on by hooking on the clip on one side and then applying pressure to the centre of the opposite side. Check that the bezel is fully on by examining the gaps. It may need additional pressure to fully engage.

Apply the replacement label 

• The old silver label should peel off easily. Apply the replacement label and mark the function selected.

Refit the panel meter into the panel.

• Put the panel meter back in through the front of the switch panel. Make sure it is the right way up with the label at the top.
• Refitting the fixing clamps can be fiddly. It helps to unscrew the clamp a few turns before fitting. The claws of the clamp fit into the six slots in the case and then screw in place. For later models with the plastic strap, insert the strap into the slot and work it forward.
• Both styles apply clamping pressure to the back of the switch panel, they don't screw into the panel.
• This is a good time to check that all the screw connections on the green plug are tight.
• Plug in the green connector. Make sure it has fully engaged.

Frequency check function.

If you are adding the optional frequency push button switch to the rotary switch style AC Voltmeter, install it at this stage. Later models don't need the switch to show the frequency.

Test and finish.

With the switch panel safely closed, temporarily reapply power and check the panel meters are working as expected.

If all is well, remove all sources of power again and reinstall the polycarbonate cover.

If there is a problem, check that the correct function has been selected or email nordybits@gmail.com for technical support.